Provo, UT

I’ve visited my share of national parks, and Bryce Canyon is one of my favorites. Its concentration of pink and red rock “hoodoos”–oddly shaped pinnacles of rock shaped by millions of years of erosion–are the spectacular highlight of the park, and add an air of mystery and splendor to the landscape. The Paiute Indians claimed that the hoodoos were actually evil “Legend People” frozen in time by the all-powerful Coyote, and the silent stone people now stand at attention deep in the canyon amphitheater.

Bryce Canyon is the smallest of the five national parks in Utah, and easily doable in a day or less. It’s about 3-½ hours south of Provo, and a must-see for every Utahn. Lucky for us we can visit in a weekend–and if you can go off-season even better, in my opinion. We visited over a quiet, crowd-free Thanksgiving weekend, when a layer of crisp white snow blanketed the canyon, contrasting beautifully with the vibrant-colored rock formations. Be sure to check the weather and park conditions prior to visiting in the off-season, since the high elevation–which ranges from 6,600 feet to over 9,000 feet–can mean certain trails or entire areas of the park may be closed due to snow.

We planned on spending a few days in the area, so we split our visit into two half days. With only three hours of daylight our first afternoon, we managed to do one hike and see several scenic views. There are many incredible vista points if you decide to do a drive-through of the park, but there are also easy to moderate trails well worth the effort. We started to walk out to Inspiration Point but the path was slippery, so we checked out the views from Sunset Point and Sunrise Point. At the nearby Navajo Loop trailhead we overheard someone ask an older couple who had just completed the hike if it was far or difficult and they responded, “It doesn’t matter, it’s worth it!” The wife said if she could do it anyone could, so we decided to give it a try.

Hiking any of the trails throughout the canyon will give you a perspective that you won’t see from the rim. I’m a wimp, but even the short distance I hiked down the Navajo Loop trail was totally worth it. I’ll admit I only went down about a third of the way (remembering from a visit to the Grand Canyon that it may not seem difficult on the way down, but then you have to come back UP). My husband and daughter went all the way down the steep switchbacks, and looking back at the photos I wish I’d done it, too.

After the hike we checked out a few vista points, then headed to Ruby’s Inn for dinner, swimming, and a good night’s sleep. We spent the next day at Zion National Park, then revisited Bryce the following morning before heading down Scenic Byway 12. Luckily the southern end of the park, which had been closed for snow removal, had reopened and we were able to stop at the major vista points–including Rainbow Point (the highest point in the park at 9,115 feet), Ponderosa Point, Black Birch Canyon, Paria View, Bryce Point, and my personal favorite, the spectacular Natural Bridge. Make sure you’re able to see this end of the park, as it has some of the most expansive and majestic views I’ve ever seen.

If you go:
–Start your visit at the informative Bryce Canyon Visitor Center and Museum
–Fees: $25 per vehicle for 7 days, or purchase a National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass for $80 if you’re planning to visit several parks within a year.
–Temperatures may be colder than expected at Bryce Canyon due to higher elevation, so check the forecast and pack/dress accordingly.
–If you travel during the off-season get an early start because daylight hours are short.